After three days wandering the busy streets of Hanoi, learning how to cook Vietnamese street food (and how to avoid death by a thousand motorbikes when crossing the road), we made our way south towards the sea. Halong Bay is filled with nearly two thousand small islands. The name supposedly translates as ‘dragon descending’, with the jagged limestone rocks forming the spikes along the creature’s spine. Just to add to the sense of drama, birds of prey circle above the waves, waiting to pounce. A very different type of hawker floats along in small rowing boats, trying to sell overpriced water, beer and cigarettes to the tourists. Its not surprising when most visitors to Vietnam are millionaires – at least in terms of the local currency. There are around 26,000 dong to the pound, which is fun until you have to decide how much to withdraw at the cash point. Some give in and pay in American dollars, which apparently puts the price up further.
There were a dozen others on our boat, the ‘Imperial Junk’, including a lovely family from Mumbai who taught us all a new card game in the evening. Munir was with his wife, grown-up daughter, and mother-in-law. Nanny was well into her eighties, but not afraid of global travel, having recently returned from a trip around Eastern Europe by all accounts. Although she didn’t take part in our cycling and kayaking trips, she was keen to do some hiking, and ruthless when it came to playing rummy. Nanny swore like a sailor when dealt a bad hand.
After some night-swimming and sea food for supper, we slept aboard the boat, sailing on in the morning towards Cat Ba Island. There we could relax, swim in the sea and read on the beach. It was as stressful as it sounds. By now we’ve made it back to Hanoi, to catch a night train north into the Hills. In Sa Pa we’re hoping to come across some of the different village tribes we’ve read about, who trade in markets at the weekend. It will also be the place where we celebrate Gwenfair’s birthday – which promises to be a bit different to a night out in Cardiff.
There were a dozen others on our boat, the ‘Imperial Junk’, including a lovely family from Mumbai who taught us all a new card game in the evening. Munir was with his wife, grown-up daughter, and mother-in-law. Nanny was well into her eighties, but not afraid of global travel, having recently returned from a trip around Eastern Europe by all accounts. Although she didn’t take part in our cycling and kayaking trips, she was keen to do some hiking, and ruthless when it came to playing rummy. Nanny swore like a sailor when dealt a bad hand.
After some night-swimming and sea food for supper, we slept aboard the boat, sailing on in the morning towards Cat Ba Island. There we could relax, swim in the sea and read on the beach. It was as stressful as it sounds. By now we’ve made it back to Hanoi, to catch a night train north into the Hills. In Sa Pa we’re hoping to come across some of the different village tribes we’ve read about, who trade in markets at the weekend. It will also be the place where we celebrate Gwenfair’s birthday – which promises to be a bit different to a night out in Cardiff.
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