HANOI to HALONG BAY and back

After three days wandering the busy streets of Hanoi, learning how to cook Vietnamese street food (and how to avoid death by a thousand motorbikes when crossing the road), we made our way south towards the sea. Halong Bay is filled with nearly two thousand small islands. The name supposedly translates as ‘dragon descending’, with the jagged limestone rocks forming the spikes along the creature’s spine. Just to add to the sense of drama, birds of prey circle above the waves, waiting to pounce. A very different type of hawker floats along in small rowing boats, trying to sell overpriced water, beer and cigarettes to the tourists. Its not surprising when most visitors to Vietnam are millionaires – at least in terms of the local currency. There are around 26,000 dong to the pound, which is fun until you have to decide how much to withdraw at the cash point. Some give in and pay in American dollars, which apparently puts the price up further.
There were a dozen others on our boat, the ‘Imperial Junk’, including a lovely family from Mumbai who taught us all a new card game in the evening. Munir was with his wife, grown-up daughter, and mother-in-law. Nanny was well into her eighties, but not afraid of global travel, having recently returned from a trip around Eastern Europe by all accounts. Although she didn’t take part in our cycling and kayaking trips, she was keen to do some hiking, and ruthless when it came to playing rummy. Nanny swore like a sailor when dealt a bad hand.
After some night-swimming and sea food for supper, we slept aboard the boat, sailing on in the morning towards Cat Ba Island. There we could relax, swim in the sea and read on the beach. It was as stressful as it sounds. By now we’ve made it back to Hanoi, to catch a night train north into the Hills. In Sa Pa we’re hoping to come across some of the different village tribes we’ve read about, who trade in markets at the weekend. It will also be the place where we celebrate Gwenfair’s birthday – which promises to be a bit different to a night out in Cardiff.

Helo Hanoi!

Os yw hi'n fore da yn Fietnam, mae'n sicr yn fore cynnar. Mae'r awdurdodau lleol ym mhob ardal yn y ddinas 'ma yn cyhoeddi bwletinau newyddion ar uchelseinyddion ar y strydoedd - ac maen nhw'n dechrau am chwech o'r gloch y bore! Mae'r cyhoeddiadau, mae'n debyg, yn cynnwys cynghorion ar fywyd cymunedol ac yn atgoffa pobl o'u dyletswyddau i'r fyddin!

Ry'n ni'n aros yn hen ardal brysur Hanoi; dryslwyn o strydoedd cul sydd dal ag arwyddion amlwg o gyfnod y Ffrancwyr yma. Mae heidiau o feiciau modur swnllyd yn brwydro am le ar hyd y ffyrdd yn erbyn ambell i horwth gyriant pedair olwyn, seiclos bondigrybwyll a'r menywod sy'n gwerthu eu nwyddau o fasgedi wedi'u hongian o'u hysgwyddau. S'dim lle i gerdded gan bod y palmentydd naill ai wedi'u gorchuddio gan feiciau modur wedi'u parcio, neu gan bod y siopau neu'r bwytai bach anffurfiol wedi gorlifo mas i'r stryd. Does dim ofn 'da phobl gario llwythi heglog iawn yma chwaith. Ry'n ni wedi gweld beiciau modur yn cario degau o focsys, a menywod yn cludo pentyrrau o grochenwaith amrywiol ar feic oedd wedi'i addasu'n arbennig.

Wrth grwydro drwy'r strydoedd daeth hi'n amlwg bod pob stryd yn gyfrifol am werthu nwyddau gwahanol. Cerddon ni lawr stryd yr angladdau, stryd y priodasau, stryd i werthu lampau, un arall i werthu loshin, stryd y garages, stryd i werthu mygydau... Mae 36 stryd i gyd.

Roedd ci wedi'i fygu ar y fwydlen amser cinio, salad mango a dryw a nifer o fwydydd eraill fel criced wedi'i rostio a chawl pen neidr... Roedd e'n neud i fi feddwl falle taw nid fel anifeiliaid anwes roedd y caetsh gorlawn o adar bach ar werth yn y farchnad yn gynharach. A beth am y caetsh oedd yn cynnwys y ddau gi bach 'na? Allen nhw ddim fod ar werth fel bwyd allen nhw? Roedd e'n fy atgoffa i o farchnad yn Ffrainc pan on i'n fach a finne'n dotio ar gaetsh llawn cwningod, a 'Nhad yn neud i fi lefain wrth ddweud wrtha i beidio gwastraffu'n egni gan y bydden nhw ar blat rhywun erbyn diwedd y dydd....

Ma 'na stori arall 'ma sy'n fy atgoffa i o stori Caledfwlch mewn ffordd rownd a bowt 'fyd. Mae 'na lyn ynghanol Hanoi, Hoan Kiem, 'Llyn y Cleddyf Dychweledig'. Yn ol y chwedl, roedd y brenin, Le Thai To, ar gwch ar y llyn yn y bymthegfed ganrif pan ddaeth crwban anferth ato fe a llyncu y cleddyf aur roedd e wedi'i ddefnyddio i drechu'r gelyn Minh. Ma 'na grwban anferth gafodd ei ddarganfod yn Hoan Kiem wedyn wedi'i gadw mewn blwch gwydr yn nheml, Ngoc Son ar y llyn nawr. Ond roedd well 'da fi'r crwban bach mosaic oedd ar y wal i groesawi pawb, gan gario'i gleddyf aur yn falch ar ei gefn.

Ta ta HK!

Ar ol gwers T'ai Chi gan William a Pandora ar yr harbwr a taith Sampan i weld y cychod ola sy'n dal i fod yn gartrefi yn ninas Aberdeen ar Ynys Hong Kong (dim ond 25 erbyn hyn,) fe gethon ni'n visas i Fietnam. Felly daeth hi'n amser i adael dinas yr Hang Seng, ac ar ol taith drwy bedair gwlad - Hong Kong, Macau, Gwlad Tai a Fietnam, ry'n ni nawr yn Hanoi.

HONG KONG: Dim sum and no to Chungking

"Hello pretty lady, hello handsome man?!" We'd be flattered, but for the inevitable lines that follow... "You want copy watch? Rolex? Genuine handmade fake? Handbag? Suit - you need tailor, sir? DVDs? Foot massage??" Free trade is still alive and well in this little corner of China, and we meet it head-on whenever we venture out the doors of our hostel. There were plenty of street sellers in Beijing - but there they had official party guards on every corner keeping a watchful eye. Nothing of that sort here.
Coming to Hong Kong was always more of a practical necessity than anything else - but there's been plenty here to keep us amused during our short stay. Today started with a rather sweaty run around the park, followed by a long, late dim sum breakfast looking out towards the sky-scrappers. We even had a Sunday paper. Our chopstick skills were tested to the full trying to pickup tennis ball-sized steamed buns, but we're getting quite practiced by now... After a stroll around a gallery, we went to see a kung fu demonstration. There were no Bruce Lee style stunts, but plenty of colourful costumes, a dragon and middle-aged women wielding swords. These ladies should not be crossed.
We've been staying just a block up from the very grand sounding 'Chungking Mansions'. It may well have seemed like a mansion when it was built, but has long since been superseded by other man made wonders. It's now become a seedy looking tower block with reputedly Hong Kong's worst hostels filling 15 or so floors... Thankfully we've managed to find accommodation elsewhere - and while it's not the most salubrious place we've been, our windowless shoebox is at least ensuite... We're moving up the island tomorrow for two nights at a different hotel -who knows, we may even escape the street sellers. If not, we now know some middle-aged ladies who can keep them at bay.

Beijing Newydd Beijing Hen a CHWY PY!!

Un funud chi'n cerdded rhwng cwmwl grafwyr sy mor newydd dy'n nhw ddim wedi'u cwblhau eto, a'r funud nesa chi'n cerdded ar hyd strydoedd cul lle mae cenhedlaethau o bobl y ddinas wedi crafu byw am ganrifoedd. Mae pawb ry'n ni wedi siarad a nhw yn dweud gymaint mae Beijing wedi newid dros y ddegawd neu'r ugain mlynedd ddiwethaf, ac mae olion o hynny ymhob man.

Fe welon ni un ardal bore 'ma, tu ol i Sgwar Tiananmen, oedd newydd ail-agor ar ol cael ei ailwampio yn stryd siopa newydd ond yn yr un arddull ag oedd yna'n wreiddiol. Roedd y brif stryd dal yn wag heb yr un siop wedi symud mewn eto, ond bod bysiau llawn o dwristiaid Cheiniaidd yn crwydro yno beth bynnag. Ond, doedd y datblygiad ddim wedi cyrraedd y stryd siopa gyferbyn eto. Rhwng yr hen stondinau yno roedd ambell i beth oedd yn edrych fel cwt, ond mai cartref gyda digon o le i wely a dim arall oedd yno.

Ethon ni i gael pip ar yr adeiladau Olympaidd echddoe, ond ddoe yr ennillon ni fedal arall dros Gymru.... Wel, ym meddwl Hywel beth bynnag! Ni oedd y cynta mas o'n grwp ni o deithwyr o bob rhan o'r byd i gerdded dros 10km ar hyd Wal Fawr Tseina. Teir awr gymerodd hi i ni gerdded i Simatai a doedd hi ddim yn rhwydd bob amser. Mewn mannau roedd y llwybr wedi cwympo bant i gyd. Fel yn y twr lle buodd Hywel a fi'n trio asesu os oedd y cwymp o rhyw chwe troedfedd ond i'r dde rywfaint, nid yn syth lawr, yn rhy bell ai peidio. Penderfynodd Hywel ei fod e ac fe drodd e nol... Ond yr un pryd fe benderfynes i fynd amdani... Gollwng fy hun lawr, a difaru'n syth.... 'Na lle on i yn hongian o ffenest un o dyrrau Wal Fawr Tseina, yn gorfod galw ar Hywel am help ac yn dweud bo fi'n ofni bo fi ar fin marw.... Roedd cwymp o dros ddeuddeg troedfedd os na lanien i ar silff oedd rhyw chwe troedfedd i'r dde. Roedd Hywel eisiau trio nhynnu i nol lan, ond ro'n i'n gwbod mai dim ond un ffordd oedd 'na - a lawr oedd hwnnw... Wel na i gyd sy ishe dweud yw - os bydd Angelina Jolie fyth eisiau stunt double ar gyfer rhyw Tomb Raider ffilm arall, nid fi ddylai hi alw...

Un peth am yr hen sy'n byw yn Beijing - maen nhw'n joio cadw'n ffit. Mae rhai yn neud tai chi mas yn y parciau, ac mae eraill yn cymryd mantais o'r gyms awyr agored sy 'da nhw 'ma. Ma 'da nhw beiriannau rhedeg, pwysau, olwynion i droi, bariau... pob math ar beth. Ac un peth am y rhai sy newydd ddod i'r byd 'ma yn Beijing - maen nhw'n gwisgo trowsusau bach sydd a hollt ar y pen ol fel pan mae galwad natur yn dod 'na i gyd sydd rhaid i'w rhieni neud yw eu hongian nhw wrth bwys coed wrth ochr y ffordd iddyn nhw gael neud eu busnes... Jyst fel 'na.... Cyfleus yntyfe!!

Ok, felly falle nad yw Beijing a'i smog a'i thraffig gwallgo yn berffaith o bell ffordd, a falle dyna pam bod ymerawdwyr y gorffennol wedi cael casgliad o balasau, nid yn unig ynghanol y ddinas, ond hefyd ar ei chyrion - Palas yr Haf. A gallwch chi faddau llawer i ddinas sy'n cynnwys golygfeydd fel rhein...

Wel, ni ar ein ffordd i Hong Kong fory. Ond cyn gadael. CHWY PY! Swn fydda i'n cysylltu a Beijing am byth... Swn dynion y ddinas sy'n poeri fflem pryd bynnag a ble bynnag maen nhw eisiau... yn y theatr hyd yn oed...

Be welon ni o'r wal / View from the Great Wall

BEIJING: the Forbidden city lets us in

My biggest anxiety about coming to Beijing wasn't the smog, the traffic or the enormous size of the place - it was actually whether we'd be allowed in to China at all. Our attempts to get a visa were far from straight forward, being granted only the special "journalists on holiday" type after a few expensive visits to the Embassy in London. So it was with relief that we cleared immigration, got on the bus, and made our way to the city centre with no special agents following our tail... or so we hope.

Thankfully, it was worth the hassle. We've crammed a lot in the first few days, seeing the imperial palaces at the Forbidden City, beautiful parks, craft markets, acrobatic shows and temples. We're staying in an old 'courtyard' house, in one of the few remaining hutong areas that hasn't been bulldozed. You can only walk here, not drive, which is a relief as much of our time has been spent trying to gingerly cross the road and avoid the oncoming cars who don't care if the light is red or green.

We've eaten very well - trying Hunan and Szechuan foods, as well as the city's own Peking duck. Vegetarians may want to skip the details below - but preparation apparently involves pumping the meat with air, boiling the bird, hanging to dry, basting the carcass with syrup, washing, and finally roasting in a peach and pear tree wood oven. It's then carved in front of your eyes and served with a special certificate to prove it was reared especially for the restaurant. For what its worth, duck no. 11466784 was very tasty. The restaurant was laden with photos of dignatories being served duck too. Where else in the world could boast to have served both David Beckham and Kim Jong-il?

BEIJING: Bwrlwm, bwyd a blodau

Falle taw dim ond rhyw dair awr mewn awyren sy'n gwahanu Tokyo a Beijing, ond mae'r lle 'ma fel byd arall. Ar ol cael ein trin mor barchus yn Japan, roedd hi'n sioc cael pobl yn dod aton ni yn ceisio gwerthu tacsis, gwestai neu teithiau rickshaws i ni cyn gynted ag y cyrhaeddon ni orsaf ganolog Beijing. Ry'n ni wedi dysgu 'bushi' - NA - yn Mandarin yn gloi iawn, pan na ddefnyddion ni 'iie' (na) unwaith yn Japan!

Roedd cael ein gollwng ar waelod gwli cul, un o'r 'hutongs,' a'r gyrrwr tacsi yn amneidio arnon ni mai 'lawr fanna' oedd ein hostel yn sioc arall. Roedd parc bach concrit ar y gornel lle roedd hen ddynion yn chwarae chess neu ping pong, a grwpiau o bobl o bob oed yn cicio folis gyda rhywbeth oedd yn edrych fel plu ar 'pyc' rwber. Ar hyd y gwli roedd grwpiau o fenywod yn chwarae cardiau o amgylch bocsys, eu golch yn hongian ar y welydd tu ol iddyn nhw, a gwynt ansawrus yn dianc o'r tai bach cyhoeddus gerllaw... Ond - tu ol i ddrws caedig, daeth i'r amlwg bod ein hostel ni yn hen lys trawiadol, gyda lampau cheiniaidd ac addurniadau traddodiadol ymhobman.

Ar ol crwydro drwy ragor o hutongs a gwynto gwynt golosg a caramel poeth bob yn ail fe anelon ni am fwyty mewn ardal ger tri llyn sy'n boblogaidd yn y nos, ardal Houhai. Ymysg y danteithion ar y fwydlen, roedd neidr wedi ffrio, crwban wedi rhostio, neu gaserol marchlyffant (bullfrog!) Ond roedd blasau'r porc a'r cig eidion gethon ni mor gryf a blasus, a fel dim arall y'n ni wedi bwyta ar ein taith hyd yma.

Cyn gadael y bwyty fe hwpodd y weinyddes dusw o flodau melyn hyfryd mewn papur porffor i fi. Sai'n gwbod pam roiodd hi nhw i fi, ond ro'n i wrth fy modd yn cerdded nol gyda nhw rhwng y bobl leol oedd yn dawnsio gyda'i gilydd tu fas ar y stryd a goleuadau'r bwytai yn adlewyrchu ar y llyn.

Heddi, gwelon ni ragor o ddawnsio a chanu ym mharc Jingzhan. Wrth grwydro ar hyd y llwybrau, ry'ch chi'n clywed swn corau answyddogol yn canu gyda'i gilydd; rhai i gyfeiliant offerynnau, a rhai o amgylch menywod yn dawnsio dawnsfeydd traddodiadol yn frwdfrydig. Fel wedodd Hywel, anodd dychmygu pobl ardal Parc Fictoria yn cwrdd i neud yr un peth ar fore Sadwrn. Wedyn fe wynebon ni'r torfeydd dirifedi yn y ddinas waharddedig, hen gartref ymerawdwyr y cyfnod Ming a Qing. Lle llawn rhyfeddodau. Fe gerddon ni wedyn drwy Sgwar Tiananmen. Heno hefyd ethon ni i weld un o'r sioeau mwyaf bythgofiadwy i fi weld yn fy myw. Sioe acrobatig anhygoel. I goroni'r cwbl - swper o hwyaden rhost Beijing. Gethon ni hyd yn oed dystysgrif i nodi rhif arbennig yr hwyaden fyton ni!

TOKYO: Paper dragons, robots and rappers

After three weeks in Japan, its almost time to leave. Having returned to Tokyo from the north, seeing all the neon and sky-scrappers has been just as exciting the second time around. But we wanted to see a few things the guidebook neglects. First up was the hunt for origami. The art of folding little bits of paper isn't as prominent here as you might expect - we'd only really seen it in Hiroshima with the peace cranes. Gwenfair found an address on the internet that claimed to be a museum of sorts, in a quiet part of the city. When we eventually tracked it down it turned out to be the office of the 'Japanese Academic Origami Society' - they take this stuff seriously. One book showed you how to make a grasshopper in just 153 easy steps...the dragons, birds and dinosaurs were all very impressive.
We also wanted to experience going to a gig. At home, this involves going out late - hanging around in noisy crowds. Here things start at 6pm - with hushed silence during every song, until the last note has finished. There were three acts - the first a terrible songwriter from Florida who thought the way to bridge the language barrier was to gesture hand signals to accompany his lyrics. Next up was 'Group Inou' - two skinny Japanese kids who make loud electronic music to shout a long to. We have no idea what they were saying, but they were full of energy - the sound was a bit like being locked into one of the noisy 'pachinko' amusement arcades for days. The headliner was someone I'd heard of - 'I am Robot and Proud'. Electronic music is very popular here - perhaps because they produce a lot of the electronics - and while nobody dared dance, everyone - including us - really enjoyed.
On Friday we move on to Beijing, which should be very different. We don't know yet how easy Internet access will be, so if the blog goes quiet for a little while, please don't panic.

*O ie, a gan bod Gwenfair wedi dechrau blogio yn Saesneg (gwelir Mt Fuji), gair bach oddi wrtho i yn Gymraeg - yn anffodus sdim gair o wirionedd i beth welwch chi isod, ond mae Pocari Sweat wir yn bodoli...

POCARI SWEAT: the advert

While we were out running this morning in Tokyo's Ueno park, something remarkable happened. Some marketing agency people approached us, and asked if we'd consider being in an advert. They're planning to market Japan's number #1 energy drink in Australia, the US and UK. They said we were just what they were looking for. We agreed and the above is a rough story board of how the advert will run - if all goes to plan we could be the face of Pocari Sweat across the western world...

Mount Fuji

She was hiding behind the clouds when we arrived, but the drain covers showed us what she was meant to look like. As we circled at her feet during the afternoon she teased us. First, giving us a glimpse of her right shoulder, then her left. Then for a glorious few minutes she exposed her décolletage, before covering up in her scarf of clouds once again.

SUPER FURRY ANIMALS and friends