In a field on the outskirts of Otavalo stand around a hundred people, all holding chickens. Some are buying, some are selling - everyone is weighing up how tasty their bird will be. Once a sale is made, a few feathers fly and the chicken is strapped to the belt so that the buyer can be on their way. This is Saturday morning shopping in South America's biggest market.
There are also cats and dogs here for sale (as pets), but those really wanting a treat are here to buy cuy - guinea pigs. The bartering takes place over a sack full - plucked out one at a time for inspection. The little furry creatures will maybe live another week or two as they're fattened up for the dinner table.
Next stop - textiles - which have brought Otavalenos an international reputation, as well as quite a bit of wealth, judging by the number of large 4X4s being driven around town. There are thousands of blankets, tapestries and rugs to choose from - with every seller starting with an asking price of 18 dollars, before almost instantly adding that they could maybe offer us 'un descuento.'
We eventually settled on a nice warm, woollen blanket from an old lady who tells us each one takes a whole day to make. Not yet completely shopped out, we add a football shirt, a blouse and a few other gifts to our purchases, before retreating from Otavalo to a hostel up in the hills.
Tired from all that shopping, Sunday is a day of rest - and so we follow the locals' example of walking to the waterfalls for a picnic. From there we made our way up to Peguche, which seemed a very sleepy little village until, from the distance, came the sound of firecrackers...
Sunday it turns out is also a day for fiestas - this one in honour of San Pedro. But this was nothing like the solemn Catholic procession as we'd seen in Peru. Here, the archbishop was replaced by the local chief and a shaman, backed up by dancers and full marching band. Big baskets of food were laid out in a circle, before a fire was lit in the centre. Glasses of strong chicha were passed around for us to share, as the shaman gave thanks to the mountains.
Throughout the whole ceremony, the band played their one song over and over while people danced in carnival costumes around the square. Finally the food was shared out - potatoes, beans, maize and of course roasted cuy. After three hours, and a few cervezas, it was time for us to leave... By now we're out of Ecuador and in Buenos Aires, where we'll spend the rest of this month.
There are also cats and dogs here for sale (as pets), but those really wanting a treat are here to buy cuy - guinea pigs. The bartering takes place over a sack full - plucked out one at a time for inspection. The little furry creatures will maybe live another week or two as they're fattened up for the dinner table.
Next stop - textiles - which have brought Otavalenos an international reputation, as well as quite a bit of wealth, judging by the number of large 4X4s being driven around town. There are thousands of blankets, tapestries and rugs to choose from - with every seller starting with an asking price of 18 dollars, before almost instantly adding that they could maybe offer us 'un descuento.'
We eventually settled on a nice warm, woollen blanket from an old lady who tells us each one takes a whole day to make. Not yet completely shopped out, we add a football shirt, a blouse and a few other gifts to our purchases, before retreating from Otavalo to a hostel up in the hills.
Tired from all that shopping, Sunday is a day of rest - and so we follow the locals' example of walking to the waterfalls for a picnic. From there we made our way up to Peguche, which seemed a very sleepy little village until, from the distance, came the sound of firecrackers...
Sunday it turns out is also a day for fiestas - this one in honour of San Pedro. But this was nothing like the solemn Catholic procession as we'd seen in Peru. Here, the archbishop was replaced by the local chief and a shaman, backed up by dancers and full marching band. Big baskets of food were laid out in a circle, before a fire was lit in the centre. Glasses of strong chicha were passed around for us to share, as the shaman gave thanks to the mountains.
Throughout the whole ceremony, the band played their one song over and over while people danced in carnival costumes around the square. Finally the food was shared out - potatoes, beans, maize and of course roasted cuy. After three hours, and a few cervezas, it was time for us to leave... By now we're out of Ecuador and in Buenos Aires, where we'll spend the rest of this month.
1 comment:
What is it with Ecadorians and guinea pigs? Thank God you're in Buenos Aires now. Have you danced the tango yet?
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