The derelict tower that looms over Ejercito Celestial was meant to be a hospital. Built in the good old days of the Peron government, it was never finished and instead a shanty town grew up around the hollow shell. A few families now live inside - others in half built wood and brick constructions that always look on the verge of collapse.
This is one of the places we've been coming to volunteer. Call it travellers' guilt if you like, but we've wanted to do something like this all along. It takes us almost an hour to travel out of the nice, clean, cosy city centre where we have an apartment, to the sprawling mess of outer Buenos Aires and the villas. That's the name given to the shanty towns here - ironic really when you think how glamorous a "villa" sounds at home.
This is one of the places we've been coming to volunteer. Call it travellers' guilt if you like, but we've wanted to do something like this all along. It takes us almost an hour to travel out of the nice, clean, cosy city centre where we have an apartment, to the sprawling mess of outer Buenos Aires and the villas. That's the name given to the shanty towns here - ironic really when you think how glamorous a "villa" sounds at home.
When we arrive it doesn't take long for the kids to spot us volunteers in our matching t-shirts - or the box of games and toys we carry with us. Most sessions start off with blowing up balloons - before launching into some drawing and colouring. There's meant to be an educational bent to the whole thing, but as the children are currently on extended school holidays due to swine flu, their instinct is to play - and for the boys, that means football.
Although some of them are as young as three and four, all the boys know how to play football the Argentinean way - lots of running with the ball, lots of shouting and very little passing. The slightest hint of a tackle can result in highly theatrical rolling on the floor, which is actually far more dangerous than being fouled, due to all the broken glass and dog dirt around the place.
Although some of them are as young as three and four, all the boys know how to play football the Argentinean way - lots of running with the ball, lots of shouting and very little passing. The slightest hint of a tackle can result in highly theatrical rolling on the floor, which is actually far more dangerous than being fouled, due to all the broken glass and dog dirt around the place.
Going to the villas is humbling, frustrating, exhausting and exhilarating all in equal measures. Sometimes only a few kids turn up, sometimes there are too many to keep them all occupied. There's no state provision there - schools, police, hospitals (that work) are all stationed away from the villas. And although this is one of South America's most prosperous cities, there's little sign of things improving.
1 comment:
Loved the description of kids' footy, Hywel. Cultural difference is a wonderful thing.
There's a factual book called "The Corner" by David Simon, which includes many accounts of a woman called Ella and her rec centre in a deprived area of Baltimore. Your volunteering reminded me of it, and it's a book you'd like if you get chance to buy it anywhere.
Take care both of you,
Kevin.
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